Torment-Forbidden Traverse Climb

GALLERY

DETAILS

Join Us on 3 Days Torment Forbidden Traverse

The Torment-Forbidden Traverse, also called the “TFT”, is iconic. Knife-edge ridge climbing, glacier travel, steep snow and ice traverses, and an ascent and descent of a 50-classic climb (the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak) combine to create one of the most sought-after alpine climbing objectives in the country. Climbing the Torment Forbidden Traverse route requires bringing your overnight gear up the technical climbing, which is up to 5.7 in difficulty. One of the highlights of the climb is bivvying along the route. We lay-out our bedding on the ridge while the sun descends behind a mountain-studded horizon and the stars come up. Our guests and guides find this to be one of their most memorable life experiences. The following day we continue the climb, ascending the solid rock of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak before descending to a remnant glacier and heading back to camp.

Participating in Torment Forbidden Traverse climb is an excellent opportunity to practice advanced skills used on complex climbing objectives the world over. A large skill-set and excellent fitness are required, and the rewards are huge.

Difficulty in Torment Forbidden Traverse:

5.7 rock climbing in mountain boots
Steep snow up to 50 degrees
Ice climbing/traversing up to 55 degrees
Climbing with a light-weight overnight pack
Grade IV

Prerequisites for Torment Forbidden Traverse :

Previous multi-day backpacking experience
Previous glacier travel and crevasse rescue experience. This can be gained on our Mountaineering Skills Course..
Previous multipitch rock climbing experience, preferably in an alpine setting. This can be gained on our Alpine Rock Climbing Course.
Excellent physical fitness. This trip involves long days on-the-move in the mountains while carrying a pack weighing around 30 to 35lbs. This pack will be carried while climbing rock, ice, and snow. Most participants will need to train specifically for this objective. Take a look at our Alpine Climbing Training Program for some specifics.

Duration

3 Days 2 Nights Camping

Gear check

Required

Passport

Not needed for US citizens

Minimum Age

16 years old

Activity

Alpine Rock & Ice Climbing

Accommodation

Tents

PRICE BASIS

PRICE INCLUDES

Fuel, Pots, and Stoves
Tents
Group climbing equipment
Guide Services

PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

Transportation
Parking or entry fees (when applicable)
Food or drinks
Accommodation before or after the course
Personal clothing
Personal climbing equipment (rentals available)
Gratuities for guides

ITINERARY

Day 1 :

The first day we depart the Seattle Area at 6am, arriving at the Marblemount Ranger Station to collect our permit around 9am. We then drive an hour to the Boston Basin Trailhead and hike to the upper camp at Boston Basin. The trail is steep, and there is a creek crossing that is often deep enough to require closed-toed shoes for the crossing. We arrive at camp in mid-afternoon, and use the remainder of the day to review skills specific to the Torment Forbidden Traverse climb.

Day 2 :

We wake early this day, and depart camp about 30min before sunrise when it is just light enough to see. After traversing west we ascend slabs and snow to the base of Mt. Torment, and begin the climb. The Torment Forbidden Traverse climb of Torment involves several pitches of rock- some of it loose- up the South Ridge and SE Face to the summit. We then descend the face and traverse northeast to a notch before rappelling north onto a glacier. This rappel sometimes involves crossing a tricky crevasse or moat. We then traverse the glacier, cross another moat, and head back up on the rock and back to the ridge. Eventually we reach the crux snow traverse (can be ice in late season conditions) and either traverse the snow or bypass it on rock if it is out of condition. Beyond the snow traverse we find our bivy for the night on a flat part of the ridge next to a snowfield we can use for water.

Day 3 :

Today we wake early once more, aiming to start moving just before sunrise. Soon we cross the “sidewalk”, a section of ridge with a flat top that drops off precipitously on both sides. We then rappel to the start of the West Ridge of Forbidden and leave our packs behind. We will be coming back this way to pick them up later. We then ascend and descend the West Ridge, which is mostly good quality rock up to 5.7 in difficulty. We again don our packs and rappel Cat Scratch Gulley to a snowfield below, and head back to camp for some quick rest before breaking-down camp and heading back to the cars. An incredible adventure completed, a celebration dinner is in-order.

FAQs

General FAQ's

Testimonials

I was part of a group that summitted Mt. Baker in early August this year. Overall, it was a great experience. I went into it not knowing what to expect from a guided climb (my past few had been unguided) and was pleasantly surprised. I was concerned that I'd be bored, but was happy to find that they did a great job juggling our group's varying skill levels, and I walked away feeling like I had learned and progressed as a climber. Ben and Anthony are both very knowledgeable (you can always learn from guides, it just depends how much time they have to teach!) and I found myself getting a bunch of new experiences even just in the 24 hours that we climbed. I was also impressed by their abilities to read us and judge when clients needed encouraging or advice. They did a great job managing us, and I remember the moment that my attitude turned from "this isn't going to happen but it's still experience" to "holy crap, we have a shot!" After toughing it out through some rain, blustering winds, and low visibility, the skies cleared up and we had our chance. Thanks to Ben and Anthony for the positive attitudes and guidance that weekend! I'd definitely join them again in the future.
Eve Jakubowski
What an awesome experience to go on climbing Mt. Rainier with Miyar Adventures. Sandeep and his team of guides ( Kirk, Alexis, Joe, Ben, Chris, Jasmin ) did an awesome job to lead the multiple rope teams trough snow skill preparations and guiding through safely on glacier journey. The amount of efforts put into multi-month preparation, pre-trip meetings, accessibility to gears for rent and attention to details with food/weight/personal gears were all instrumental in almost all of us (in a group of 24) able to summit Mt. Rainier and have wonderful memories. We knew we were in best company and safe hands with prior experience with Miyar Adventures led climb to Mt. Baker and few other preparation trips. And guides calibrated their approach from novice climbers to experienced climbers to push enough to have an enjoyable experience. I highly recommend to go with Miyar Adventures on amazing trips they have lined up around the Puget Sound Area and internationally.
Harshit Shah
This was my first time technical/glacier climb under great guides assistance & summited Mt. Baker & can't wait for more to come, see you soon ;)
Zuzana Svitek
If you are interested in doing any climbing or hiking but need a guide , I highly recommend Miyar Adventures...Sandeep is a wonderful person and you will actually learn (and practice ) climbing and crevasse rescue techniques in addition to the trip/climb ...it is definitely beyond a just a "get you to the summit" experience. He genuinely cares and brings in other excellent guides for bigger groups. My husband and I recently successfully made it to the summit of Mount Baker with Sandeep, two other guides and a group of friends and we had a fantastic experience. He and the guides he works with are very knowledgeable so I had confidence in their abilities to lead us but they are also very friendly and fun so that overall trip was enjoyable. I will definitely climb with Miyar Adventures again!
Monica Henry
I've climbed Rainier and Baker (+several other training hikes) with Sandeep and other guides from Miyar Adventures. The climbs were made super fun, safe, and informational. With Sandeep's detailed prior planning, extensive know-how of the mountaineering practices, and long climbing experience, you know the climb is going to be safe with great chances of summit. Before all big climbs, Sandeep does an indoor session to discuss the itinerary and answer any concerns. You'll definitely learn a lot whenever you spend time with Sandeep. He has expertise in all forms of climbing: mountaineering, rock and ice. So it also makes it easy to try other activities because you already know the guide well. I've taken instructions from few other guides as well and I wouldn't doubt to state that Sandeep is the best guide I've climbed with! He'll keep you motivated and answer your questions with patience. He'd have fun stories to tell from his rescue ops, first ascents, or other hard climbs. He is ready to make adjustments based on the preferences of the group which is a key in making the trip not only successful but also enjoyable. I can't recommend Miyar Adventures enough! Give them a try and you'll be glad you did.
Prateek Sharma