Southern Pickets Range Climb

GALLERY

DETAILS

Join Us on 5 Days Climb Southern Pickets Range

The Picket Range is one of the most remote mountain ranges in the United States. It also has some of the most impressive scenery and adventurous climbing opportunities. The Pickets are home to classic alpine rock climbs such as the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak (10 pitches, 5.9), challenging scrambles such as the West Ridge of McMillan Spire, complex alpine climbs such as the North Face of Mount Terror, and incredible multi-summit traverses. The Pickets have a physical approach and rugged terrain that is not to be under estimated. For those with a thirst for solitude, beauty, and adventure there are few places like it on earth.

Our classic Pickets trip enters the Southern Picket Range, which has easier access and fewer logistics than a Northern Pickets trip. However, we are happy to offer a Northern Pickets Trip or a complete traverse for those with enough grit and time to spare. Your exact itinerary will depend on your goals, weather, route conditions, and the climbing ability of your team. Typically we tackle two to three objectives during a five-day Southern Pickets trip. Crossing “The Barrier”, which is a steep ridge that divides Terror Creek Basin from Crescent Creek Basin, is often an objective in itself, and involves crossing a moat and ascending low-fifth-class terrain to the top of the ridge. This gains access to climbs in the vicinity of Mount Terror.

Prerequisites for Climbing Southern Pickets Climb Range Climb:

Previous multi-day backpacking experience in rugged mountainous terrain
Ability to use crampons and an ice axe, including the ability to self-arrest. This can be gained on our Intro to Snow Climbing Course
For those attempting alpine rock climbs, previous multipitch rock climbing in an alpine setting is required. This may be as a leader or follower. This experience can be gained on our Alpine Rock Climbing Course or a guided climb on the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak.
Excellent physical fitness. A trip into the Southern Pickets involves more than 6,000ft of gain while carrying a 50lb pack.

Duration

5 Days 4 Nights Camping

Gear check

Required

Passport

Not needed for US citizens

Minimum Age

16 years old

Activity

Alpine Rock Climbing & Scrambling

Accommodation

Tents

PRICE BASIS

PRICE INCLUDES

Fuel, Pots, and Stoves
Tents
Group climbing equipment
Guide Services

PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

Transportation
Parking or entry fees (when applicable)
Food or drinks
Accommodation before or after the course
Personal clothing
Personal climbing equipment (rentals available)
Gratuities for guides

ITINERARY

Day 1 :

Depart home at 5am for the Marblemount Ranger Station to pick-up our permits. We then head to the Goodall Creek TH, and begin our hike to basecamp. The approach trail has become much more defined in recent years, and although the trail is steep and downed logs are plentiful, the going is relatively straight-forward. Depending on the time or year we may have deep creek crossings en route to camp, so you may need water shoes. It is just over 6,000ft of elevation gain into basecamp in Terror Basin, and packs will be heavy with technical gear and food for five days. Expect 8 hrs of hiking to reach camp, and make sure you have trained well for the Southern Pockets Range Climb trip.

Day 2

Today we may rest in the morning and tackle a smaller objective in the afternoon, or we may get an early start on a big objective. Possibilities include the East Ridge or South Face of Inspiration Peak, McMillan Spire, or heading over The Barrier to tackle peaks in the vicinity of Mount Terror the following days.

Day 3 :

Possible objectives include the East Ridge or South Face of Inspiration Peak, McMillan Spire, or heading over The Barrier to tackle peaks in the vicinity of Mount Terror the following days.

Day 4 :

It is common to choose an objective in Crescent Creek Basin after crossing The Barrier this day. This may be the Chopping Block (also called Pinnacle Peak) or the West Ridge of Mount Terror. For those with enough time, the right conditions, and the right experience a climb on the north side of Mount Terror may be attempted. A climb on the north side of Terror is big, complex, and remote, and often done as a carry-over with an overnight pack.

Day 5 :

Pack-up and head out. Depending on the location of camp, your group may descend the way you came up (Goodall Creek) or down the ridge south of The Barrier and cross Terror Creek before following the creek to the main trail and back to the car. If descending the ridge from The Barrier, expect an adventurous route with some interesting navigation along Terror Creek through thick forest, downed logs, and brush once you get off the trail from the ridge and begin following Terror Creek. This descent also crosses Terror Creek, which can be deep depending on time of year.

FAQs

General FAQ's

Testimonials

I was part of a group that summitted Mt. Baker in early August this year. Overall, it was a great experience. I went into it not knowing what to expect from a guided climb (my past few had been unguided) and was pleasantly surprised. I was concerned that I'd be bored, but was happy to find that they did a great job juggling our group's varying skill levels, and I walked away feeling like I had learned and progressed as a climber. Ben and Anthony are both very knowledgeable (you can always learn from guides, it just depends how much time they have to teach!) and I found myself getting a bunch of new experiences even just in the 24 hours that we climbed. I was also impressed by their abilities to read us and judge when clients needed encouraging or advice. They did a great job managing us, and I remember the moment that my attitude turned from "this isn't going to happen but it's still experience" to "holy crap, we have a shot!" After toughing it out through some rain, blustering winds, and low visibility, the skies cleared up and we had our chance. Thanks to Ben and Anthony for the positive attitudes and guidance that weekend! I'd definitely join them again in the future.
Eve Jakubowski
What an awesome experience to go on climbing Mt. Rainier with Miyar Adventures. Sandeep and his team of guides ( Kirk, Alexis, Joe, Ben, Chris, Jasmin ) did an awesome job to lead the multiple rope teams trough snow skill preparations and guiding through safely on glacier journey. The amount of efforts put into multi-month preparation, pre-trip meetings, accessibility to gears for rent and attention to details with food/weight/personal gears were all instrumental in almost all of us (in a group of 24) able to summit Mt. Rainier and have wonderful memories. We knew we were in best company and safe hands with prior experience with Miyar Adventures led climb to Mt. Baker and few other preparation trips. And guides calibrated their approach from novice climbers to experienced climbers to push enough to have an enjoyable experience. I highly recommend to go with Miyar Adventures on amazing trips they have lined up around the Puget Sound Area and internationally.
Harshit Shah
This was my first time technical/glacier climb under great guides assistance & summited Mt. Baker & can't wait for more to come, see you soon ;)
Zuzana Svitek
If you are interested in doing any climbing or hiking but need a guide , I highly recommend Miyar Adventures...Sandeep is a wonderful person and you will actually learn (and practice ) climbing and crevasse rescue techniques in addition to the trip/climb ...it is definitely beyond a just a "get you to the summit" experience. He genuinely cares and brings in other excellent guides for bigger groups. My husband and I recently successfully made it to the summit of Mount Baker with Sandeep, two other guides and a group of friends and we had a fantastic experience. He and the guides he works with are very knowledgeable so I had confidence in their abilities to lead us but they are also very friendly and fun so that overall trip was enjoyable. I will definitely climb with Miyar Adventures again!
Monica Henry
I've climbed Rainier and Baker (+several other training hikes) with Sandeep and other guides from Miyar Adventures. The climbs were made super fun, safe, and informational. With Sandeep's detailed prior planning, extensive know-how of the mountaineering practices, and long climbing experience, you know the climb is going to be safe with great chances of summit. Before all big climbs, Sandeep does an indoor session to discuss the itinerary and answer any concerns. You'll definitely learn a lot whenever you spend time with Sandeep. He has expertise in all forms of climbing: mountaineering, rock and ice. So it also makes it easy to try other activities because you already know the guide well. I've taken instructions from few other guides as well and I wouldn't doubt to state that Sandeep is the best guide I've climbed with! He'll keep you motivated and answer your questions with patience. He'd have fun stories to tell from his rescue ops, first ascents, or other hard climbs. He is ready to make adjustments based on the preferences of the group which is a key in making the trip not only successful but also enjoyable. I can't recommend Miyar Adventures enough! Give them a try and you'll be glad you did.
Prateek Sharma