Join Us on 3 Days Climb of Northwest Face of Forbidden Face Climb
The Northwest Face of Forbidden is a big and complex route with a circuitous approach across the largest glacier in North Cascades National Park. Complete with solid rock climbing up to 5.8 in difficulty and on-route bivies, this is a must-do route on every Cascade alpine climber’s ticklist.
We offer either a three or four-day itinerary for Forbidden Peak Northwest Peak climb route, depending on climbers’ previous experience, fitness, and learning goals. We approach the route from Boston Basin, which is famed for its beautiful position above lupin-filled meadows, cascading creeks, and humbling views of Johannesburg Mountain’s massive Northeast Face. We then ascend the Quien Sabe Glacier for a short distance before passing over Sharkfin Col via two rappels and dropping onto the remote and expansive Boston Glacier. Traversing the crevassed glacier we reach a notch in the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak, and ascend by climbing a steep gulley of snow, dirt, and rock. On the top of the North Ridge we find a flat area for a magnificent bivvy with views of Moraine Lake, Eldorado, Boston Peak, Mount Buckner, Glacier Peak, and hundreds of jagged glaciated summits across the Cascade Range. The adventure continues as we drop onto the Forbidden Glacier and traverse to the toe of a rib that leads directly to the summit of Forbidden Peak. We ascend the rib, which is knife-edge in places before it blends into the face above. After reaching the summit we descend the technical knife-edge West Ridge of Forbidden to a bivy site high on the ridge for another incredible night under the stars. Our final day takes us back down to Boston Basin via a series of rappels and out to the cars.
Difficulty in Forbidden Peak Northwest Peak Climb:
- 5.8 rock climbing in rock shoes. 5.6 in mountain boots.
- Steep snow up to 50 degrees
- Ice climbing/traversing up to 50 degrees
- Climbing with a light-weight overnight pack
- Grade IV
Prerequisites for Forbidden Peak Northwest Peak Climb:
- Previous multi-day backpacking experience
- Previous glacier travel and crevasse rescue experience. This can be gained on our Mountaineering Skills Course.
- Previous multipitch rock climbing experience, preferably in an alpine setting. This can be gained on our Alpine Rock Climbing Course..
- Excellent physical fitness. This trip involves long days on-the-move in the mountains while carrying a pack weighing around 30 to 35lbs. This pack will be carried while climbing rock, ice, and snow. Most participants will need to train specifically for this objective. Take a look at our Alpine Climbing Training Program for some specifics.
NOTE: For those without the required prerequisites we can add custom training days to the itinerary as necessary.
Duration
3 Days 2 Nights CampingGear check
RequiredPassport
Not needed for US citizensMinimum Age
16 years oldActivity
Alpine Rock & Ice ClimbingAccommodation
Tents
- Fuel, Pots, and Stoves
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide Services

- Transportation
- Parking or entry fees (when applicable)
- Food or drinks
- Accommodation before or after the course
- Personal clothing
- Personal climbing equipment (rentals available)
- Gratuities for guides