Climb rock, ice, steep snow, and cross a massive glacier on this four-day climb of one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. The Fischer Chimneys route linked to the Southeast Ridge of Mt. Shuksan offers a host of challenges to the developing alpinist in an environment offering solitude and stunning views over North Cascades National Park and surrounding lakes and glaciers. The rock climbing is up to 5.6 in difficulty, while the ice and snow climbing is up to 55 degrees (AI 2). This route is best suited to those with previous rock climbing and mountaineering experience who have excellent fitness. If you have previous mountaineering experience but have not rock climbed or rappelled before you may do a training day with us to develop the skills necessary to climb this route.
Skills Covered During the Climb:
PassportNot Required for Americans
Minimum Age18 years old
ActivityAlpine glacier, ice, and rock climbing
- Group climbing equipment (rope, anchors, protection)
- Group medical kit
- Guide services and instruction
- Lodging before/after the trip (tents are included during the climb)
- Personal climbing equipment and clothing
- Travel and evacuation insurance
- Gratuities for guides
Meet at a convenient Park and Ride in the Seattle Area at 8am. Drive 2.5 hrs. from Seattle to the Glacier Public Service Center in Glacier, WA to pick-up permits. Continue driving another 45 minutes to the Lake Anne Trailhead. Hike 4.2 miles to Lake Anne to camp for the evening
Wake-up around 7am and pack-up camp. Hike-up the trail for 1,200 ft. to the start of the Fischer Chimneys. Ascend steep trail and scramble up rock for 800 ft. to reach camp at the edge of the White Salmon Glacier. Your group may ascend Winnie’s Slide (a steep section of snow or alpine ice) today or set-up camp beneath this obstacle. Practice techniques for climbing alpine ice and multi-pitch rock once settled in camp. Go to bed early for the big day tomorrow.
Summit day! Wake around 3:30 or 4am. Ascend Winnie’s slide to the Upper Curtis Glacier. Climb the steep glacier around crevasses (belays may be necessary) and cut back south when the glacier flattens to reach Hell’s Highway (a steep pitch of snow in a couloir). Ascend Hell’s Highway to the Sulfide Glacier. Cross the Sulfide Glacier and ascend to the base of the SE Ridge. Climb solid rock in 6 pitches to the summit. Descend via the central gulley by rappelling and short-roping back to the Sulfide Glacier and descend back to camp the way you came. Eat a big dinner, watch the sun set, and head to bed. Typical summit days last between 12 and 14 hours.
Wake around 7am and pack-up camp. Descend the Fischer Chimneys via rappels and down-climbing back to Lake Anne for a lunch and swim break (if desired). Continue 4.2 miles along the Lake Anne Trail back to the cars at the trailhead. Stop for an early dinner/late lunch to celebrate your accomplishment on the way back to Seattle.