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Join Us on a 4 Day Climb of Glacier Peak
Called Takobia (also spelled Dakobed) by the Native Americans of Puget Sound, Glacier Peak is the most remote of all volcanoes in Washington State. Its heavily glaciated slopes are guarded by alpine meadows leading down to ancient old-growth forests of fir and cedar. All approaches to this mountain require more than ten miles of foot travel. For the mountain wilderness lover, Glacier Peak is the jewel of the Cascades.
During this four-day Glacier Peak climb, we take the Gerdine and Cool Glaciers route, involving trail, cross country navigation, and glacier travel. Our guides provide instruction in backpacking and mountaineering during the approach and on the climb. Due to the distances that must be covered, previous backpacking experience is required for this trip.Skills Covered during the Glacier Peak climb:
- Selection of personal equipment and packing for a glacier climb
- Ice axe positions and self-arrest techniques
- Use of crampons
- Walking techniques with and without crampons
- Climbing knots
- Glacier travel skills and rope management
- Navigation and route finding
- Hazard assessment
- Cold weather camping skills
- Leave No Trace
Duration
4 DaysGEAR CHECK
RequiredPassport
Not Required for AmericansMinimum Age
13 years oldActivity
MountaineeringAccommodation
TentsPlease note: Gear checks are required and available the day before your trip start date. They are available weekly at Ascent Outdoors in Ballard from 6:30pm-8pm on Thursdays. If your trip does not start on a Friday we will schedule a custom gear check at Ascent Outdoors the day before your trip start date.
PRICE BASIS
PRICE INCLUDES
- Stoves
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
- Pre-trip planning information
- Backpacking, mountaineering, and general outdoor safety skills
- Discounted gear purchases and rentals
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
- Food
- Transportation
- Personal climbing equipment and clothing
- Travel and evacuation insurance
- Gratuities for guides
ITINERARY
Please note:This is a tentative itinerary. The actual trip schedule may change due to weather, unsafe route conditions, or for other reasons beyond our control.
Day 1: Hike to base camp
We meet very early at a Park and Ride in the Seattle Area. It is important that water is filled and backpacks are already packed and ready to be carried when we meet at the trailhead. Because of the early time of our departure, stores may not be open to purchase last minute food and supplies. After a 2.5 hr. drive we reach the North Fork Sauk trailhead along a gravel road. The trail begins relatively flat until reaching the Mackinaw Shelter (2,950 ft.) after five-and-a-half miles. We refill our water and begin the steep three mile climb to White Pass (5,904 ft.) with awesome views of the Cascades such as Indian Head, Cadet, Mt. Johnson, Monte Cristo, Sloan Peak, and White Mountain. We may camp near White Pass or continue on, depending upon the weather forecast for the coming days and the condition of our team. If continuing, another two miles and 800 ft. of elevation brings us to Glacier Peak Meadows where there are many campsites and glacier melt for water. This day will be between nine and twelve miles of hiking with more than 5,000 ft. of elevation. It will take between eight and eleven hours of walking to reach camp.
Day 2: Skills Practice
Today we will practice mountaineering skills near Glacier Meadows, including snow walking techniques, ice axe positions, self-arrest, and rope team travel. We take lots of rest to recover from yesterday. We go to bed early in preparation for our early wake-up tomorrow to begin the climb. If the weather report looks bad for tomorrow, we may make this day our summit day instead of a practice day.
Day 3: Summit Day
We will wake around 1am to begin our Glacier Peak climb, which will take between nine and twelve hours round-trip. First, we ascend the gradual slopes of the White Chuck Glacier before passing through a col to reach a fin of rock sticking above the glacier on the other side. We walk along this fin of broken rock (called a “cleaver”) and then drop back to the snow when the terrain becomes too steep to continue. We continue under Disappointment Peak and onto the Cool Glacier. The final few hundred feet are on low angle snow to reach the summit, complete with panoramic views of surrounding mountains, glaciers, rivers, forest, and aqua blue lakes. We return to camp for some well-deserved rest. Depending upon how we are feeling and the weather report, we may pack-up and move camp down this day.
Day 4: Return
We again wake early to take down camp and begin the long descent back to the cars. Going down is much faster than ascending, but descending more than 5,000 ft. in a single day with a full pack is still difficult. It will take between six and seven hours to reach the trailhead. We then head to town and congratulations. We have completed one of the most remote, spectacular, and physically challenging Glacier Peak climbs the Cascades has to offer!
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