In many crevasse rescue scenarios knowing how to set-up a simple 3:1 pulley system is not enough. A lip may create significant friction or be difficult to pass, large packs and sleds may make loads too heavy, the terrain around the crevasse may be steep and icy, the position of a fallen climber or injuries may make rappelling into a crevasse necessary, or a middle member of the rope team may have fallen requiring special systems and considerations. This three-day course introduces students with previous glacier mountaineering experience and crevasse rescue training to the systems used by professional guides and rescuers. This course is ideal for rope-team leaders, trip organizers, aspiring guides, or anyone who is planning on spending time on crevassed glaciers where help is far away. This course takes place in crevasses on Mt. Baker unless timing or conditions prevent access to crevasses.
A good working knowledge of self rescue and how to arrest a fall and rescue a climber with a 3:1 pulley system (Z-pulley) is required for this course. This experience can be gained on our standard Crevasse Rescue Course. If you have this experience but are out of practice our Crevasse Rescue Refresher can bring you up to speed.
Skills Covered during the course:
- Rope management in rescue systems
- Rope-team travel techniques and considerations
- Load-releasable knots, hitches, and devices
- Creating improvised snow anchors
- Review of 3:1 system
- Using a 2:1 system to overcome problems
- Using a separate strand of rope to set-up an alternate system
- Increasing mechanical advantage to a 5:1 an 6:1
- Putting back-ups in the system
- Methods of rappelling and ascending
- Leave-No-Trace camping skills
PassportNot Required for Americans
Minimum Age16 years old
ActivityCrevasse Rescue/Glacier Mountaineering
- Breakfast and Dinner
- Chai/Tea/Coffee/Hot Chocolate
- Stoves/Cook Kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide Services
- Pre-trip Planning/Information session on packing and gear
- Backpacking, mountaineering, and general outdoor safety skills
- Transportation (We will help arrange carpools or transportation can be provided for extra fees)
- Gratuities for Guides
The trip will start with a meeting at least 3 days before the start date. We will go through the following:
- Ride sharing
- Personal gear check, gear rental
- Logistics, weather, and plan for each day
Note:In the event of inclement weather, we may opt to do some of the course at a campground or in a classroom setting that is convenient for students and instructors.
If you are interested in doing any climbing or hiking but need a guide , I highly recommend Miyar Adventures...Sandeep is a wonderful person and you will actually learn (and practice ) climbing and crevasse rescue techniques in addition to the trip/climb ...it is definitely beyond a just a "get you to the summit" experience. He genuinely cares and brings in other excellent guides for bigger groups. My husband and I recently successfully made it to the summit of Mount Baker with Sandeep, two other guides and a group of friends and we had a fantastic experience. He and the guides he works with are very knowledgeable so I had confidence in their abilities to lead us but they are also very friendly and fun so that overall trip was enjoyable. I will definitely climb with Miyar Adventures again!
What an awesome experience to go on climbing Mt. Rainier with Miyar Adventures. Sandeep and his team of guides ( Kirk, Alexis, Joe, Ben, Chris, Jasmin ) did an awesome job to lead the multiple rope teams trough snow skill preparations and guiding through safely on glacier journey. The amount of efforts put into multi-month preparation, pre-trip meetings, accessibility to gears for rent and attention to details with food/weight/personal gears were all instrumental in almost all of us (in a group of 24) able to summit Mt. Rainier and have wonderful memories. We knew we were in best company and safe hands with prior experience with Miyar Adventures led climb to Mt. Baker and few other preparation trips. And guides calibrated their approach from novice climbers to experienced climbers to push enough to have an enjoyable experience. I highly recommend to go with Miyar Adventures on amazing trips they have lined up around the Puget Sound Area and internationally.
Sandeep is possibly the best person (Miyar and guides) in the business to take you on the mountains. Anyone who has trained with him to summit Rainier over the years can tell you how much he cares about his peeps. Talk to him and he can always find a way to make it happen. I have been trying to climb Rainier for few years with personal constraints (need to be always available, can return anytime, 24*7 sat phone access etc) and many times I had to return mid climb from big ones like Baker and Rainier. It was really easy to talk to the guides about this situation. I never once felt unsafe on the mountains. This is a big deal given how much we learnt when it comes to snow skills and glacier training. Be safe and go with Miyar!